Cartajima

Through The Chestnut Trees: Cartajima – Igualeja – Parauta 

We – my wonderful host Bots and I – did a hike to the white mountain villages of the area. 

Los Riscos

GR 249 Gran Senda de Màlaga, Los Riscos, Cartajima

Technically speaking I quit the Gran Senda de Màlaga some time ago and I do some hikes wherever I am. Currently I’m in Cartajima, some kilometers south of Ronda at the wonderful Refugio hostel.

I really feel “at home” – if one can say that being on a journey – for the first time since I am here in Andalusia.

Today I went up a mountain to Los Riscos which are some kind of strange jurassic rock formations just without dinosaurs.

IMG_4688IMG_4697IMG_4705IMG_4710IMG_4798IMG_4715IMG_4704IMG_4786IMG_4717IMG_4793IMG_4788

Afterwards I met a caravan club from the Netherlands who took me with them to the smurf village wich was painted in blue for a movie. The inhabitants decided – after they had some busloads of visitors from China and all over Europe – to leave it like that.

IMG_4808IMG_4801IMG_4807IMG_4810

After that I walked back to Cartajima through a buzzing valley where a little not very shy boar crossed my way.

IMG_4817IMG_4816IMG_4696IMG_4695IMG_4691IMG_4825IMG_4828

Cartajima:

IMG_4834IMG_4841IMG_4844IMG_4845IMG_4840

Ronda GR 249

GR 249 Gran Senda de Málaga, Ronda

This location is still unique! 

Caminito del Rey

GR 249 Gran Senda de Malaga, Caminito del Rey

Vertigo! 

The Caminito del Rey was kind of my nemesis as I have vertigo and I really want to get rid of it.

I had to wait early in the morning because I didn’t reserve a ticket online.

If you get in, you’ll get one of those funny hats. No, it’s a pity, but you can’t keep it.

fullsizerender

It starts very smoothly in a wonderful landscape with a turquoise river streaming through, but very quickly it gets kind of uuuuaaaah!!!fullsizerender1fullsizerender2fullsizerender3fullsizerender4fullsizerender5

When you have passed the first gorge you come to an enchanted valley:

fullsizerender7fullsizerender8img 4601

Just until you pass the second gorge:

fullsizerender10fullsizerender11

This bridge you see in the picture is the old bridge. Behind it you can see a – in my eyes – very, very tiny and instable rope bridge. There was a lot of wind and I’m very thankful to the guy who lend me his arm to get me over to the other side.

img 4623fullsizerender13fullsizerender14fullsizerender15fullsizerender16fullsizerender17fullsizerender18fullsizerender19fullsizerender20

Yes! I did it! I’m very proud (:  And now: Breakfast.

GR 249 Gran Senda de Malaga, Ardales - El Chorro

GR 249 Gran Senda de Málaga, Ardales – El Chorro

Changing the hike

From the beginning nothing went like I imagined it would. On the one hand this is disturbing and makes me kind of nervous in the moment of desaster but on the other hand I got to know again, that nearly every kind of situation can be handled and for every door which is closing another one opens up.

Today I went to the mountains without my big backpack because I was able to leave most of my stuff on the camping area.
What a relief! Despite having packed nearly “ultralight”, I must admit that ultralight is not enough. Six kilos + two liters of water and some food makes it at least 8,5 kilos.

Walking and nearly bouncing I came to the result, that I won’t do it again. Those three things are definitely not working together:

  • Heat
  • Weight
  • Feet

As for this hike I can only change one of them I will look for a place to stay for the rest of my time in Andalusia and do some hikes starting from there.

The hike today

After a short walk on the road you enter a dirt road and just until the descent on El Chorro it will stay like that. You’ll hike through a diverse natural and agricultural landscape and the panoramic mountain views are wonderful. There is a short stretch of road again where you can visit Bobastro, an archaeological site of a mozarabic town. It’s a quite big area, so you really have to be interested to do it.

 

IMG_4307IMG_4318IMG_4308

IMG_4325IMG_4333IMG_4336IMG_4337IMG_4348IMG_4354

Andalusias hidden lakes

After the road stretch you enter a nice and shady forest. So many lakes and I only saw them on my map but not in reality! La Laguna de Pietra, la Laguna Dulce and now the Embalse Superior Taja de la Encantada. I was just next to it, I saw it on my map but all I really saw, was a giant wall next to me. The scenery looked a little bit like in one of those sci-fi movies where there is another parallel world behind a big insuperable wall. At one moment there is a small trail leading 30m uphill and I went to see the barrier lake behind the wall.

Next to this “bad” world nature seamed still more natural and enchanted. Above all because I was in a little quite forest and when I went around a corner I stood right in front of a kind of capricorn-deer (big as a deer, face like a deer, corns like a capricorn) who was as surprised as I was and disappeared quietly and without panic between the backlighted trees. Magic happens.

 

IMG_4358IMG_4359IMG_4363IMG_4367IMG_4371IMG_4393

The descent on El Chorro is a little challenge due to plants growing over the trail and the trail being rough and quite close to the abyss.
In El Chorro I had something to eat in the restaurant La Garganta, as in the bar and the supermarket on the camping area there is a strict no-vitamins policy, and I went back by bus.

As it was already seven o’clock I was the only passenger and the bus driver let me out at the camping area.

IMG_4404IMG_4405IMG_4412

IMG_4401IMG_4410IMG_4414IMG_4419

The base of Maslow: 

  • There is no accessible water on the road. Anyway: You will pass by a lot of fincas and if you have an water emergency you can surely solve it by knocking on some doors
  • I didn’t meet any dogs without bars between me and them on this stage.
  • In El Chorro you’ll find some, maybe expensive possibilities to stay at night. Or you go by bus (every 30 minutes until 7 pm) to Camping Parque Ardales, like I did.

The following night was a nightmare. My tarptent notch is good for every weather except of sandstorms. I woke myself up covered in sand. I had it in my eyes, my ears and between my teeth. Yummy.

As the following night will be as stormy as the last one I booked a bungalow and will have a big nights sleep today.

 

GR 249 Gran Senda de Malaga, Fuente de Piedras - Campillos

GR 249 Gran Senda de Málaga, Fuente de Piedra – Campillos

This is the fucking Meseta!

This is all I thought during the hike. When I thought that it can’t get more desert-like I looked around the corner and it was more yellow again. Even the plants got more and more hostile and showed up their thornes.

While visually, as shown on the pictures, it was gorgeous, vast and colorful. An ocean of wheat.

img_4212img_4200img_4192IMG_4233IMG_4232IMG_4204img_4259IMG_4237IMG_4238IMG_4241IMG_4247IMG_4254IMG_4260IMG_4263IMG_4268

Entering “friendly” Campillos:

img_4271IMG_4274.JPG

The base of Maslow

  • All the water I saw was stinky and dirty (turtles seam to like that)
  • The lakes which you can see on your map are not accessible
  • There is a hostel (San Francisco) in Campillos with a very gentle hostess. She ordered a taxi for me, while the lady in the bar on the central plaza shouted at me saying: “This is a village! There are no taxis in villages!”

 

I continued (by taxi) to the wonderful Camping Parque Ardales:

IMG_4279IMG_4281IMG_4289

GR 249 Gran Senda de Malaga, Antequera

GR 249 Gran Senda de Malaga, Pausing In Antequera

Due to my feet I had to stop for two days and  beautiful Antequera gave me a perfect reason to do so.

img_3987img_4054img_3982img_4035img_3966img_3961-1img_3970-1img_4013img_4009-1

 

They have some weird Saints there:

 

The story of the “Peña de los Enamorados”, Lovers’ Rock, is as good as Romeo and Juliet. A Muslim girl and her father’s Christian slave, endlessly in love, threw themselves down because their families didn’t accept their amour fou.

 

Placa de los toros:

img_4017-1img_4030-1img_3992

This is the view from my room. Every morning I salute the people from my balcony:

img_3958-1